Thank you for your purchase of the best Sportsman clutch on the market, The Red Devil Flame!

Assembly

· Check the engine's crankshaft for smoothness and cleanliness. Remove all dirt, rust and burrs.

· Install the clutch, sprocket towards engine (unless you are using our outboard 9-10 tooth kit or are mounting it outboard due to room limitations), checking to make sure the clutch does not extend over the end of the crankshaft

· You will only have three pieces to install, the drum/sprocket assembly, center keyed washer, and the drive hub

· The drum assembly consists of drum, inner race, sprocket, and washers

· The drive hub assembly consists of hub, shoes, springs, and red finger guard. Do not operate the clutch without this guard!

· Slide the drum/sprocket assembly onto the crank, followed by the center keyed washer, then the drive hub assembly (If mounting outboard install the drive hub assembly first, center keyed washer, then the drum assembly)

· Install the clutch mounting bolt

· You’re Done ! It’s that easy

Adjustment

Clutch engagement needs to be set 200-400rpm above peak torque for the engine. Your clutch comes preset for the class and engine specified. Every engine has a different torque curve, so sometimes adjustment is necessary for peak performance. If you don't know the peak torque rpm and your clutch is not accelerating like you feel it should there are many different spring combinations available. One of the largest issues we see are clutches with engagement higher than peak torque which causes slippage, heat, and costly repair. Today’s OHV engines use torque at low rpm to accelerate, use the torque your engine has.

Important things to check for performance

Shoe wear: Every couple of race weekends, inspect the shoes for cracks, overheating, and glazing. Using 80 grit sandpaper scuff the shoes to remove any glaze. They do not have to be perfectly shiny. Spray off the shoes with compressed air and then clean with wd40 and a rag.

Drum wear: When inspecting the shoes, pay attention to the drum as well to see if we are beginning to glaze over. Scuff with 80 grit sandpaper as well, and clean in the same way as the shoes.

Inner Race: The inner race for the sprocket is made from heat treated, hardened steel. Inspect for any cracks or wear. Clean with WD40 and a rag.

Sprockets

Clutch drive sprockets are taken very seriously in the design of our clutches. We use only SMC brand sprockets. They are heat treated, precision machined, and cost the same as more inferior products. Sprockets should be cleaned with brake cleaner, dried, then lubricated with High Temp Red Bearing Grease. Grease is for bearings, Vaseline is for skin care. We will not warranty in any way, any clutch that is using the WMS or other cheap knock off sprockets. Do yourself a favor and buy good drive sprockets, whether it’s from us or another supplier.

Cleaning

We recommend cleaning the clutch after every race weekend. Remove from the kart, spray off any dust or loose material with compressed air. Spray the entire clutch assembly, drum included, with WD40 and let the clutch soak for a few moments. This does two things; It allows the wd40 to loosen any grime and dirt on the parts, and it allows the parts to maintain their correct coefficient of friction and wear. DO NOT use Brake Cleaner, carb cleaner, or any other harsh degreasers; This will strip any oils from the parts and cause a very aggressive engagement and accelerate wear dramatically. We will not warranty in any way, any clutch that is cleaned with harsh chemicals.

www.GoFastHP.com